Arizona whips

[Craig Frank]

Taylor - thank you.

Roy - thank you. There were still several things about number 14 that I didn't like. Time to move on to number 15. I think I have a fatal flaw in the way that I've been wrapping the sinew and I need to try something different.

[Craig Frank]

Whip number 16 core. Comments and suggestions, please.

[Craig Frank]

Oops. I mean 15.

[Craig Frank]

I think I figured out one of my problems with my limp transitions. The rope I use for the core has too open of a weave and the BBs can actually squeeze out the sides if I pack it too tight. I think the looseness of the BBs is causing some of the limpness.

[Donovan de Swardt]

Sounds like a definite possibility, hope this find solves your issue

[Guest]

I usually roll the whips with a smooth wooden board every stage I can: after plaiting, after bolstering, after binding etc. It gives the whips nice, smooth, round tight finish.

[Guest]

And for doing it, you can tie the end of the core to something, table- or chair leg, a hook or something so the whip doesn't go all over the place.

[Craig Frank]

Erik - I always roll after bellies abd overlay, but I never thought of rolling after bolsters as well.

[Fritz Ehlers]

Good stuff Craig. One of best lessons I have learned here is when you think you have enough sinew on, you dont, do another pass.

Yup, that's about right, .....

[Rachel McCollough]

Craig, I'm an absolute beginner-when it comes to bullwhips, especially. My core is still giving me a few fits. Up at the top of the page is the search box. You can type in bullwhip binding. It's a lot to read through but you can see various progressive builds and the results... Invaluable.
Something I have noticed when binding ( for me ) its worked good to angle the transition down a bit and tie the end of the thong to something. Taut but not tight like a guitar string. It is straight and not bent at the transition when you are wrapping it. I'm able to get a better (I think!) straightness to it that way- the sinew being wrapped more evenly in spacing and tightness. The first belly seems to move alot better when I do it this way. You can twirl it in a figure 8 on a non abrasive clean floor and it should follow itself nice and clean like a snake. If it doesn't- redo. I won't even fool with one at all if it won't do this nice.
The bb's pushing out the side- a few people I've heard here using a larger cord to put the bb strand down inside it... You look through all the whips in this section you will see this. David also has mentioned in the whip section here before how he binds and he has a lot of good sense in how he figures it. It is a well thought out formula for a progressive binding that I believe gives consistent results.

[Sir Roger Tuson]

Craig, difficult to see from the picture but my first thought is that you should extend the stiff binding further down the thong. It looks like it's dropping away a little too soon.

[Craig Frank]

Rachel - I actually have my wife hold it out straight while I wrap it.

[Craig Frank]

Roger - how far should I go on a six foot whip?

[Sir Roger Tuson]

There are a few different schools of thought but I'd be looking at least 18" beyond the transition, progressively becoming less tight. I tend to do around 6-8" from the transition really tight, so much that you can hardly bend it and then gradually lessen the number of 'turns as I go down the thong.

Others will chip in with their thoughts, I'm sure

Here's one of mine... hope it helps.

[Craig Frank]

Roger - thanks. After I finish the one for the wisp swish I'm going to experiment with a whole new core that may eliminate the need for sinew completely.

[Craig Frank]

And no, it's not electric tape.

[Craig Frank]

So now that I'm done with my whips for the swap, it's time to experiment. My next whip core will consist of 1/4" wire rope with a plastic cover, 5/16" rope that will only be half gutted, 1/4" steel ball bearings, and 5/16" hollow steel rod for the handle. I think it may not need much of any sinew at all for the transition other than the initial binding. My idea is to cut about 2' of wire rope, cover one end with 10" of hollow steel rod for the handle leaving 14" of exposed wire rope, cut a 6' section of rope, but only gut 3' of it (36"), fill the remaining with 18" of ball bearings, shove the wire rope into the remaining 18" of the gutted half so that the wire rope pushes flush up to the ball bearings, leaving 4" of rope to go over the rod, and binding it all tight together.

I'll take picture once i get started on it. It will either work and be massive, or completely fall apart when i try to use it.

[Bobbi Holyoak]

Very cool! Thanks for letting us see them all!

[Rachel McCollough]

Craig, I look forward to seeing the results of your experiment!

[Robert Gage]

As do I. It sounds fascinating!