Whip Basics. The Forum

Hey Guys, thought I'd show you what I am up to. This is my first full size bullwhip. So far it is working out well, I just have the overlay left to do.
I started by grinding the steel rod down and putting a notch in the tip.

But I did not use a bench grinder. As my dad's is not bolted to anything right now. I used a saw-horse, electric drill, two files, and two clamps. I'll explain more later if you like...




First Belly:
I started with eight plait but in order to get over the transition area I added two strands upping it to ten plait.


I don't have any pictures of the binding on this belly.


Second Belly:
Similar to the first belly I had to add two strands to get over the transition.

I did a little experimenting with other patterns on the handle.



I plan to omit the transition knot if possible because I love how the second belly looked without a knot.

Nicely done Ethan.

Ron

Also I have a question specifically for Rachel, but anyone can answer if you like.
When you bind the TT core do you bind with the same tension for the whole length? Also how should I bind the TT at the end of the bellies? You can see in the pictures I did not do a very good job on that.

I bind the TT core as tight as I can get it without breaking the sinew (that HURTS when it breaks and pops you!). The TT and on the bellies yes I bind down at least to just past the last drop 3TT-2TT. Tight.


Looking great!

Misread sorry! Same tightness the whole length on a core, yes

Ok, Thanks Rachel! That is very helpful.

Thanks Ron!

Looks great, Ethan. I've not tried to do the TT core, butt hat's my next learning task.

Mark, the TT makes getting an even taper much easier, at least for me. I've tried the traditional method of making a core for the whole length then "stacking" bellies around it, but it did not work for me. The places where the bellies ended turned out much to stiff and bulky.

Though you seem to be doing fine with how you have doing it.

Ethan, if you take the end strands of the belly you are ending, and staggering them equally to the length of the next belly the bulkiness and stiffness is transferred to the length of the next belly.

I do use TT for making my core and bellies exclusively now, but the method mentioned above will also work but, in my limited experience, the TT works much better.

Ron

That's looking super so far Ethan

Ethan, I have trouble with that as well, not so much a stiffness problem as a taper problem. Difficult to keep smooth.

I know Ron I just, like you, find the TT much easier.

Mark, One thing I would recommend for that is to use thread to bind the strands down at the end of a belly rather than sinew. It is much less bulkier though it is harder to keep in place. If you aren't already using thread.

To grind down the steel rod I clamped one file to the sawhorse then the other on top of that. I put the rod in the drill like you would a bit and ground it down between the files. Took awhile but turned out great!

Ethan, I have been using sinew. I'll try the threads.

Ethan, I notice that you bind your core to the tip of the handle. I used to do that but now start my TT core as a 4-plt from the top of the handle, plait down to the tip and then transition into a TT. There's no danger of the core coming loose at the transition because it's actually part of the handle plaiting. You have to bind the transition from plait to TT very strongly as it's difficult to get a very tight changeover from plait to TT - it can get a bit sloppy but good use of sinew tightens it up nicely. I find this method also avoids the bulging you can get when starting a core right at the transition point.

Sir Roger, I was just about to ask about starting it as a 4 plait. Thanks.

One other thing, if you don't plait from the top and do start your core as is pictured, put you some two part epoxy on the handle under the sinew. Then it is very unlikely to get loose. It has worked for me. If it (anything on the whip, almost) is not supposed to move then I epoxy it.