New Snake

Le'me see... Whips, whips and - whips!
Fritz Ehlers

 

Post by Fritz Ehlers »

Roger Tuson wrote:Oh, and having just re-read Pokkis' thoughts on shot loading, I should add that the whip cracks effortlessly when doing a sideways horizontal crack - you hardly have to use any wrist action at all. It's the same with the overhead horizontal crack (as per Robby's Whip Shorts #5) - effortless. Trying the standard circus crack, you really have to muscle it to get anything at all. What's your thoughts on that?
That's just a technique issue,I don't think there's anything wrong with the whip.
snakes generally need a little more persuasion to crack, not necessarily more power, but more direct drive. It's because you don't get the same leverage as you might with even a short handle, so you have to make up for that lack of leverage.
The snakewhip is more of a classic working whip and designed primarily as a one crack whip with a design that allows it to be rolled up quite small so it can be stashed easily.
Keep practicing with it, you'll get it to crack easily on a cattleman's, I'm quite sure.
David Cross

 

Post by David Cross »

I'm looking at the picture again, and it really seems like the "handle" area is much stiffer than the point at which the curve begins. I can see where it lets off, but it seems to sharply accelerate right there. Can this be the result of a sudden termination of binding?

I echo the sentiments about progressive binding layers. Forgive me if that's what you did for this whip. In my whips, every plaited layer (and on some designs, the core) gets three layers of binding. Each "wrap" is longer than the last (2", 4", 6" would make up the binding for the core, for example). I have found that this works well.

If the artificial sinew isn't doing it for you, I'd look up something that was mentioned on Whip Basics a while ago, called "lacing tape". It's thin, flat, and apparently works very well for binding. I haven't gotten any yet, but I intend to.

The other thing is: Did you do closed-loop binding, or does it look like little X crossings the whole way down? The way I do mine, each successive layer forms another X-crossing pattern, but fills in the gaps from the previous layer. At the end of the binding, it looks like Xs. At the transition, it's all solid, despite using the same pattern.

Also, Robby's explanation in the other thread could be an explanation. If your shot load is weighing down the thong too much, even a stiff transition will get manhandled by the core.
Sir Roger Tuson

 

Post by Sir Roger Tuson »

Fritz, it does crack usimg the circus action but you really have to force it.

David, yup, all the binding layers were done progressively and using the 'X' pattern. I'm not stressing too much about it, just trying to work out the whys and wherefores.
David Cross

 

Post by David Cross »

Hmm...I'm out of ideas, then. Could be it's just a snake being a snake.

You'll figure it out. Every design is better than the last, right?
Sir Roger Tuson

 

Post by Sir Roger Tuson »

Haven't decided whether to strip it back and take out half the BBs or just leave it.

I'm starting a new bull using a 4-plait braid into a twisted taper as the core. First time I've not used weights.
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Ralph Masemann
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Post by Ralph Masemann »

Very cool Whip Roger :-)
Mistakes are just decoration ;)
For technical Support (forum): Look here
David Cross

 

Post by David Cross »

Roger, my last whip was built like that. It's too light, because I only used two layers. I can't help but think that, if I'd used three, it would've been just the right weight. Wax bath will also help out with that.

I love the twisted taper as a core. Not only does it compress with the plaiting, to make a super-dense core material, but it also tapers. One of the primary pitfalls of nylon whips is the lack of a primary taper, and I've been trying to solve that for five years. The Twisted Taper is the closest to a solution that I've found.

All of my experiments show that a twisted taper can accept double its strand count in plait strands. For the standard 4-strand taper, I like an 8 plait. When the first taper strand drops, I go into 6 plait, then 4 at the end.

There is also the added benefit of the core being able to soak in wax. BBs do not soak up wax. Not only are you getting extra weight, but you're getting weight that tapers with the core. It won't weigh as much as BBs, but it'll be good.
Sir Roger Tuson

 

Post by Sir Roger Tuson »

Well, I'm starting tonight so we'll see what comes out the other end. ;)
David Cross

 

Post by David Cross »

I wish you success, Roger. I think you'll like that core. Let us know how it turns out.
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Roy Partin
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Post by Roy Partin »

That is some cool looking pattern work Roger and the knot looks comfortable. I hope all these ideas come together for you and can be used successfully in your next attempt. I love the learning process in designing these things
He died for me, I'll live for him
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